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2nd & 3rd IWP
report:
TWO VERSIONS
OF ROOTS
(with the
first being "standard roots")
By Jeff Smith ((Rocky River, Ohio)
August 27 & 30 (redo), 2014
I initially
emailed David inquiring about purchasing an 8LS8 Roots plant.
He suggested I try out 4 Introductory Workshop Packages first to
understand the growing techniques for True Indoor Bonsai. This
second project is a Roots design, which particularly interests
me because that is what I initially noticed on the Fuku-Bonsai
website.
This is my revised report with some input from David after an
initial completion. I had to go back and re-work the foil
column to better take advantage of the accordion folds
This Fuku-Bonsai workshop package will allow me to pot a prepared bonsai stock, grown in a 2 pot, into a larger 5x3x2 pot. Tools used were scissors and a spoon. All other materials pictured were provided in the workshop package. The prepared bonsai stock, dwarf schefflera, will be potted in such a way that strong downward growth of the roots will be encouraged.
As a Roots project, this potting will attempt to extend the roots of the prepared bonsai stock. As a taller planting, the tie down wire needs to be joined end to end to make it long enough to go over the higher root system.
The wire is inserted into two holes and coarse bottom media is
added. It is important to tamp down the bottom media to
stabilize the roots plan later.
No plastic separator is needed because the root system is undeveloped. The accent rock is not used in this project because the goal is to encourage the roots to grow straight down.
A view of the plant before repotting. The Beginner Study Group uses 4 IWPs to teach the basics of True Indoor Bonsai. It is important to initially decide which of the 4 prepared bonsai stock will be used for each of the 4 projects. This one had lots of roots coming out of the pot, with some higher up on the trunk. I thought this would make a good foundation for a Roots design.
A
view of the roots after removal of some potting media. I am
getting ready to tie the roots together with paper-covered
wire.
It was not tied too tightly; just enough to guide the roots down
rather than horizontally.
A 12x12 piece of aluminum foil was folded in half. This resulting 6x12 piece of foil is used to create the space for the root column to form. To further encourage the roots to grow downward, the foil is accordion folded with ½ folds.
Body media was placed towards the right side of the folded foil. The plants roots were then placed on that end, with some body media added to the root ball. When joining the two ends of the foil to become the foil column, I had to be careful to not eliminate the accordion folds. The first time I wrapped the foil too tightly and lost the folds. The body media stayed in the column, but the column was not ideal to grow roots downward.
The ends of the foil were joined together to create a column. The ends were joined together and folded over twice to create a tight and sturdy seam. I was careful to squeeze the top of the column around the roots to preserve the accordion folds. The accordion folds are still visible down to the bottom of the foil column. The bottom of the foil column was expanded to allow a wider base that is more sturdy. However, do not expand the base too much as doing so would eliminate the accordion folds.
The foil column was filled with the remaining potting media removed from the prepared bonsai stock and the provided bag of new potting media. A pencil (no chopsticks here!) was used to help push the media down. A small piece of cardboard was then placed over the open end of the foil column so it could be flipped over onto the prepared pot without the loss of media.
After the plant was placed on the prepared pot, the column was squeezed and compressed into place. This helps secure the media in the column so the plant has a sturdy place to grow strong roots downward. I next secured the foil column to the pot with the wire. The wire was twisted tightly until the foil column was tightly anchored in the pot.
I trimmed off some leaves so that there were no more than three on each branch. The loss of roots during potting causes the plant to lose some of its ability to support all of the foliage. Removing some foliage balances the roots and foliage.
I placed the pot in water for 30 minutes and also poured water
in the top of the foil column. I slightly flared the top of the
foil column to make it easier to pour the water in. I poured
water into the top of the foil column at the beginning and end
of the 30-minute watering period.
I also poked holes in the foil column approximately every ½ after the initial watering. These holes will allow air to enter the root column so that it does not remain too wet and cause the roots to rot. I finally added tape to secure the column. |
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JEFF'S COMMENTS & QUESTIONS: 1. I wonder whether the media in the foil column will get enough water. The pot is soaked for 30 minutes, but the media higher up does not get soaked that much. Time will tell, and I will adjust the watering of the column accordingly. 2. I also wonder about fertilizing the roots project. Should the fertilizer pellets be placed in the pot or in the media inside the foil?
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COMMENTS BY DAVID: Jeff, you recovered nicely and your redo shows you now understand the value of the vertical creases in the foil accordion fold. Whenever you are doing a foil collar more than an 1" high. When you first water by saturation, use a small cup and pour water into the top of the foil column at the start and again at the end of the 30 minute soak (including each weekly watering). If you flare the top of the foil column like a rain catchment funnel, it will be easier. Regarding fertilizing, note that the white specks in the body mix is Nutrient Granules that are sufficient for now. A packet of Nutrient Granules is included with each IWP. Every three months, add 1/2 teaspoon and bury in the corners. But for Roots, open the top of the foil and spread in the top, the close and tape up the foil. The foil may need to be left on for 6 months or so and roots should be full before removal. It may take a year depending on your growth rate. The third IWP comments, etc. were forwarded and Jeff's 3rd IWP - Tall and Thin Roots report follows.
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After my second IWP, which was my first Roots project, David challenged me to try a taller Roots using a 12 root column. This project will attempt to extend the roots even more than the basic Roots design. When the roots are extended even more, the plant can be used for a root over rock design or a Dragon design. |
This workshop package provided by Fuku-Bonsai will allow me to pot a prepared bonsai stock, grown in a 2 pot, into a larger 5x3x2 pot. In addition to the items provided in the kit, the following are needed: 12x24 piece of aluminum foil, 3 or 4 wire coat hangers, and paper covered wire. Tools needed are scissors and wire cutters
It is important to tamp down the bottom media to stabilize the roots plan later. No plastic separator is needed because the root system is un developed. The accent rock is not used in this project because the goal is to encourage the roots to grow straight down.
A view of the plant before repotting. The Beginner Study Group uses 4 IWPs to teach the basics of True Indoor Bonsai. It is important to initially decide which of the 4 prepared bonsai stock will be used for each of the 4 projects. Among the two plants I have remaining, I chose the plant with the smaller foliage. The tall root column will be top heavy, and I wanted to make a sturdy planting.
I removed the prepared bonsai stock from the 2 nursery
pot. The removed media is saved and will be used later.
I lucked out when I opened the roots on this plant. There were some lengthy roots. The roots will be tied together with paper covered wire to encourage downward growth of the roots.
A 12x24 piece of aluminum foil was folded in half. This resulting 12x12 piece of double thickness foil is used to create the space for the root column to form. To further encourage the roots to grow downward, the foil is accordion folded with ½ folds. The folds also strengthen the foil column.
Body media was placed towards the right side of the folded
foil. The plants roots were then placed on that end, with
some body media added to the root ball.
When joining the two ends of the foil to become the foil column, I had to be careful to not eliminate the accordion folds. The two ends are joined and folded over each other to form a tight seam.
The ends of the foil were joined together to create a column. The ends were joined together and folded over twice to create a tight and sturdy seam. I was careful to squeeze the top of the column around the roots to preserve the accordion folds. The accordion folds are still visible down to the bottom of the foil column. The bottom of the foil column was expanded slightly to allow a slightly wider base that is more sturdy. However, do not expand the base too much as doing so would eliminate the accordion folds.
The foil column was filled with the remaining potting media removed from the prepared bonsai stock and the provided bag of new potting media. A pencil (no chopsticks here!) was used to help push the media down. I had to use more potting media from my remaining IWP kit. I temporarily sealed off the bottom of the column. I then took 4 12 sections from the wire coat hangers and bent them into an L shape with two ends of 11 and 1, respectively. These pieces are taped to the foil root column to both strengthen the foil column and provide support feet for the tall column. The photo shows how they are applied. Once taped tightly to the column, it stood up on its own.
The tall root column was placed in the prepared pot. It was then tied down with the provided flexible wire. Both the wire and the support feet anchor the plant in the pot.
I trimmed off some leaves so that there were no more than three on each branch. The loss of roots during potting causes the plant to lose some of its ability to support all of the foliage. Removing some foliage balances the roots and foliage. |
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JEFF'S CONCLUSION & COMMENTS I placed the pot in water for 30 minutes and also poured water in the top of the foil column. I slightly flared the top of the foil column to make it easier to pour the water in. I poured water into the top of the foil column at the beginning and end of the 30-minute watering period. I also poked holes in the foil column approximately every ½ after the initial watering. These holes will allow air to enter the root column so that it does not remain too wet and cause the roots to rot.
I enjoyed worked on the first three Introductory Workshop Packages. The initial plant was not very difficult, but the 2nd and 3rd provided a good challenge. Although I was familiar with dwarf schefflera prior to starting the Beginner Study Group, I now have a better understanding of the types of plant designs that can be made from this plant as well as how the plant should be treated. I believe the plant is quite resilient and I look forward to nurturing these plants into their next phase. I am looking forward to the 4th IWP - David has kindly provided a larger rock to sculpture. Thanks, - - - Jeff SOME FINAL COMMENTS BY DAVID Jeff produces outstanding reports with great photos and captions. He makes my editor role easy and enjoyable. I enjoy teaching one-on-one and while a bit more difficult by email, I believe all in our Beginner and Fast-Track Study Groups are sending great reports and are learning. If I stumbled onto the Journal of Tropical and True Indoor Bonsai, I think that I'd be very impressed with all of the writers who have forwarded reports. Some, like Jeff, have a natural talent and are effective communicators. He's picking up very quickly and am looking forward to him taking on greater challenges. And it starts with his IWP #4. Normally I don't assign a full "root-over-rock including rock sculpturing of a raw rock." But this month I did to both Jeff Smith and Gerado Ortiz and I believe both reports will be in next month's issue. They are both doing great and I look forward to both becoming active members of the Fast-Track Study Group! ~~~David
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