WATER, WATERING,
HUMIDITY, & MOISTURE

                There is a difference!  "Water" is the liquid. "Watering" is how that liquid is applied.  "Humidity" is the relative amount of vaporized water in the air around the plant.  And,  "moisture" is the amount of relative amount of water in the rock or potting media.  It's necessary to understand the different terms and how to increase or decrease each to obtain the desired results.

White mold on rock Dec 2002.jpg (19770 bytes)

WATER
                There are many kinds of tap water and you should know what type you have.  Hard water contain a lot of dissolved minerals and this will result in your rocks or containers developing white deposits (as shown in the left photo).  The deposits can be scrubbed off with a toothbrush and vinegar (a mild acetic acid) but it comes back. Softened water contain salts. Rain water, pond water, water from aquariums, or rain barrel water are generally good, especially if there are guppies or fish in them. Distilled water is increasingly being used. (Photo courtesy of Andreas M., Los Angeles, California)
Schultz 5.5oz Plant Food.jpg (14605 bytes)
"ENRICHED WATER"
        Plants growing indoors are growing much slower than outdoor plants need much weaker fertilizer. Over the years, we've come to realize that best growth occurs when a tiny amount of fertilizer is given each time you water. If you have rain, pond or naturally mineral free water, or if you purchase distilled water, we recommend 4 to 8 drops of SCHULTZ PLANT FOOD per gallon of water.
        Add it when you have a full gallon.  Pour into a bowl, dishpan or suitable container and soak-saturate the plant for 30 minutes once per week. Drain, and recover the extra water for reuse the next time.  You may have to add a little water to Dwarf Schefflera in mid-week if in air-conditioning or interior heating so it doesn't dry out. 
        But if you have a Brassaia, be sure to allow it to almost dry out before watering.All plants are not the same!

WATERING

                Those with outdoor bonsai generally have a number and water with a garden hose.  They should direct the water into the tops of the trees to dislodge dry leaves, discourage insects, and allow water to fall like rain to not disturb the soil in the pot.  If the level of the soil is 1/2" below the rim of the pot, a 1/2" of water will collect.  This water may take 5 minutes to be absorbed and may wet an inch of soil.  When the plant is watered a second time, it will be absorbed a little faster and may wet another inch of soil.  But if a pot is 6" deep, it may take six watering passes to wet the entire soil mass. Bonsai books tell you to water as many times as necessary until you see water coming out of the drain holes of the pot.

                But even that is not adequate if the potting media is compacted and has shrunk away from the pot.  In this situation, water will travel down along the sides of the pot and out the holes without penetrating the root mass.  Too often when we accept new memorial bonsai for the Hawaii State Bonsai Repository, we find that there are absolutely no roots in the center of a dense root mass.  After exchanging the media of alternating pie-shaped sections over several repottings, the trees take on greatly improved growth.  

                Generally,   watering practices are matched to the type of potting media that you use.   Outdoor pines generally do well in high aggregate-low organic matter media formulations.   Outdoor deciduous type trees need more clay and organic components. True Indoor Bonsai need a very loose gravelly media so the plant can drain quickly as poor draining media contributes to root rot caused by over watering.  So how much water and how often?

                WHEN YOU WATER,  TOTALLY SATURATE ALL MEDIA OR THE ENTIRE ROCK PLANTING!  The ideal method is to soak the bonsai so water can enter from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot or a rock planting can be sitting in a pan of water for at least 30 minutes.  For a potted bonsai, the water should be up to the level of the pot rim and it will be completely wet when the highest part of the soil is visibly wet.  Rock plantings can be completely submerged under water and its saturated when no more bubbles come out.  

                Basically the water has replaced every single air space in the media. When you lift the pot or rock planting out of the water,  some water drains out and you can imagine air rushing back in.  It's this weekly air and water exchange that keeps a True Indoor Bonsai healthy!  Generally,  the potted bonsai is watered again when the surface feels dry.  But each plant has a different requirement.  Brassaia likes to be very dry between waterings.  Dwarf Schefflera and most others prefer to be watered while it's still slightly damp.  After a while you'll be able to judge when your plant needs water just by lifting it.  A recently watered plant is heavy!

OVER OR UNDER WATERING

                If you badly overwater you'll kill the roots, rot the trunks, and kill the plant.   There's not much that can be done if the trunk of the plant is soggy and rotting even if some leaves are still green. If you forget to water and the trunk is hard with vertical creases showing,  it's dried out, the leaves will have a dull sandpapery appearance.   Trim off the bad leaves, rinse off any rotted areas, totally saturate the media, and place in a polybag or wide mouth gallon jar.  The high humidity will reduce the load on the roots and roots may recover.   After the first new leaf develops,   open the cover for a few days, and if the new leaf stays up, place it back to it's normal growing area.

HUMIDITY

                The moisture in the air is difficult to control.  In dry climates, plants will benefit from being on "Humidity Trays."  A simple one would be an aluminum cookie sheet filled with gravel. Keep water in the gravel but allow the top of the gravel to be semi-dry in the morning. Place the bonsai on top of this and it will benefit from the moisture given off by the gravel. 

                In extremely dry climates, it's possible to create more humidity by using deeper "Humidity Pans."  Some have been constructed with clear acrylic bottoms and walls as much as 6" high.  Gravel or plastic lighting grid panels is placed on the bottom and water kept below the top of the gravel or plastic panels. Bonsai placed on this enjoy a greater humidity and the wall help contain the humidity.

                This can be carried to a higher level by using an aquarium as the higher walls help hold more humidity.  For use as an emergency first aid station, obtain a piece of glass to use as a cover or tape plastic sheet to obtain 100% humidity like a terrarium.  This is a good environment for rejuvenating plants that have been dried out, over or under watered, over fertilized, or those that have been exposed to excessive heat or cold. 

PLANTING MEDIA MOISTURE

                Soil moisture depends upon the media mix;  the ratio of gravel to organic matter and the size of the aggregate particles.  Generally all soil contains aggregate, clay, and organic matter.  Indoor Bonsai mixes should not use clay at all as it will eventually break down and clog the drainage. Fuku-Bonsai's non-soil media is ideal and made up primarily of volcanic pumice and peat moss.  We supply it as part of workshop packages and conversion kits.  Although the materials are inexpensive it is extremely costly to ship via Federal Express from Hawaii.  We are, therefore,  encouraging the creation of an ideal True Indoor Bonsai potting mix that can be sent more cost effectively throughout the continental US by UPS Ground. We've made good progress in the past year and hope to make formal announcements and endorsements in the near future.

                _______________________________________________________

This series of articles will attempt to explain the various factors affecting plants.  This will continually be amended to include recommendations or suggestions of how to improve your environment to get the best possible growth. Continue to:

                  *     Fertilizing
                  *     Problems, symptoms, & first aid
                 *      Bugs, Insects, & Other Critters
*** Return to Fuku-Bonsai home page   
*** Go to Mail-order introduction     *** Go to Gift List & Prices       October 2002
© Fuku-Bonsai Inc.     Phone (808) 982-9880     FAX (808) 982-9880
URL:   www.fukubonsai.com        Email: sales@fukubonsai.com