DWARF SCHEFFLERA!
General and Cultural Information
3a3-2.jpg (30863 bytes)        SCHEFFLERA ARBORICOLA  has become our most popular specialty.  We first offered it in 1980 in HM-8 medium and HL-8 large size lava plantings and later as #8LS-8 potted Living Sculpture. In 1997 we introduced dwarf schefflera in small and desk sizes with this photo.   Fukumoto granddaughter Nicole Young was then four years old. This is a favorite family photo because a similar photo of Nicole's uncle Tad (who was also then four years old) was used to introduce Brassaia lava plantings in 1974. Dwarf Schefflera were in the early stages and products currently being shipped greatly exceed the quality and development of the plants in the photo.

               WATER & MOISTURE.  Saturate the entire rock planting under water for at least 30 minutes and keep it on damp (not wet) gravel. As the air bubbles out, water is rushing in. When taken out, water drains out and air rushes back in. It's this water and air exchange that keeps the plant healthy. Water again before the rock is dry. This could be once per week during cooler weather or twice per week when air conditioning and interior heating is turned on.  These are tough plants but must be kept evenly and slightly moist at all times.

                Potted plants should sit in water as deep as the rim of the pot and the water allowed to enter through the drain holes. Leave it in the water for about 30 minutes or so to assure that all media in the pot is totally saturated. Notice how heavy it is right after it's been watered. Towards the end of the week, place the center of your open palm firmly against the media surface. If it feels wet, wait a day or two before watering. Water when it feels slightly cool but before it feels warm-dry. Notice how light the plant is when it needs water. In a short time, you'll know when to water just by picking up the plant! Dwarf Schefflera can adapt to being a bit overwatered, but do not allow this plant to completely dry out or it will die. 

               LIGHT REQUIREMENTS.  This is a proven durable houseplant.  It can survive for a long while in lower light conditions, but will become weaker and weaker and will eventually die if it's too dark.  The more light the better!  If your light levels are poor, consider setting up an optimum high-light area, have several plants, and rotate plants in the low light area. 

                TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY & OPTIMUM GROWTH.  Think of Fuku-Bonsai True Indoor Bonsai as transplanted tropical Hawaiians used to warm weather (70°F to 85°F), bright sunny days, and a lot of moisture in the air. The closer that you can come to duplicating these conditions, the better your growth.  In cold climates or cool weather, be sure the plants are not in an area getting icy blasts or that the buildings are heated at night and over the weekends.  In very dry areas, to increase humidity, consider using a baking pan filled with clean gravel or pebbles. Keep water in the pan below the top of the gravel and place the plant on the gravel. Dwarf Schefflera loves humidity and the more humidity you can provide, the more aerial roots!

                FERTILIZING.   Do not fertilized for the first few months! Plants need time to adjust to their new homes and indoor plants grow at only a fraction of the rate as outdoors because of lower light levels. If you use outdoor plant fertilizer, you'll burn the roots and kill the indoor bonsai! We recommend Schultz Liquid Plant Food. They recommend "7 drops per quart or liter." That's too strong! Once or twice per month, we recommend 3-4 drops per gallon of water use to saturate the planting. DO NOT OVER-FERTILIZE!

                There really are no secrets to training bonsai. The plant must be suitable for the environment you can provide. Styling is suggested by the plant's character. Progress depends upon the quality of growth. For greatest bonsai success, create optimum growing conditions.

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                MATURE DWARF SCHEFFLERA BONSAI!  This is one of our original Dwarf Schefflera in training since about 1976.  As a youth growing up in Honolulu, a large banyan tree on the grounds of the Bishop Museum was a favorite playground.  So it was only natural to want to create bonsai into these exciting and exotic banyan forms. "Banyans" are trees that have aerial roots.   Most of the famous banyans are from the Ficus or Fig family. Even though they are often used in interiorscaping, they need much more light than is normally available.   Dwarf Schefflera is the best for those wanting to grow bonsai indoors. There are several different banyan styles or descriptive categories.  This is the most difficult style featuring an abundance of  roots that are free-falling far from the trunk. Dwarf Schefflera aerial roots tend to come out at an angle and it's best to guide each straight down.  Whenever repotting, we loosen and train roots straight down.   At the time of the photograph, this tree has not been repotted for a while.

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                Several years ago, Dr. Ivo Janecka of Harvard Medical School of Boston, Massachusetts visited us and fell in love with one of our older plants. He was confident of his ability to grow it well as he had a wide range of house plants that grew well.  There was concern that window light was strongly directional. The large size would make it difficult turn often and a Chinese restaurant-type turn-table was made.  As you can see from the photo taken recently, the tree has done very well!

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