The Dwarf Schefflera collection is developing well and we strive to broadening the range of styling.
The early trees were based upon "sumo"
reduction-building training to produce heavy trunks, multiple trunks,
and low branches. Some used "roots" techniques to feature exposed
root systems. Newer trees were trained with "Hawaiian Dragon"
concepts in which very young supple trees were given interesting
character, then thickened.
Using "contrarian" philosophy,
whenever we focus on a concept, we also focus on the opposite.
When creating "short and stout," think also of "tall and thin!"
If you like an idea, think about how it would work if it was
heavier, taller, or more complex. Then think of it as thinner,
shorter, or with a simpler, elegant design. This is "Bookends
Design Philosophy" widely practiced at Fuku-Bonsai. Basic Dwarf Schefflera designs are based
on heavy-trunk trees with broad canopies typical of banyans. A
contrasting bonsai would have a
very simple soaring S-curve trunk.
About 1995, I began using
ground-training techniques to produce faster heavier growth. Using a
large cement bonsai pot, I planted a 3-trunked tree in just an inch or
so of media and allowed the roots to grow through the 3/4" diameter pot
holes into the ground. That produced strong rapid growth. The
experiment was conducted next to the entrance to the Fuku-Bonsai
Cultural Center and visitors walked past it as they entered. The
tree was leaning against a sign but the top grew out and above the sign.
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- INITIAL POTTING:
- February
2007
Photo 1.1: A corrugated roof iron
wall on the left and the sign on the front kept the tree growing in a
corner and with light blocked. So the tree grew tall with some aerial
roots developing. The heavy concrete bonsai pot measured 28" x 18" x 7"
tall with 4 each 3/4" diameter drain holes. The trees were planted
to one side of the pot.
In
traditional outdoor bonsai, trees are field-planted in rows like a
vegetable garden and root pruned annually to control the root system.
But if roots are allowed to get established, the plant turns into a
full-size tree and it can only be dug up with great difficulty for use
as bonsai! In contrast, if the plant is potted, placed on the
ground and the roots allowed to grow through the drain holes into the
ground, the main roots in the pot make it very easily and
successfully dug up. |
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Photo 1.2: ALLOW THE
TREE TO GROW LARGE! It was easy to collect! Just lift up on the pot,
slip a saw blade under, and cut off the roots coming out of the pot
holes. In twelve years or so, the tree was over 12' tall and 18' wide!
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Photo 1.3: The
pre-trained 3-trunked tree was planted into the pot when it was about
two years old and about 8" tall. So the trunks grew steadily into a very
simple curve as it grew upward. As it grew above the sign it was pruned
once. It began to branch, then allowed to grow without any pruning for
another 12 years or so. |
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Photo 1.4: Four fast cuts removed 100% of all growth and reduced the
tree to the desired section. By stepping on the pot and pushing
the tree over, it popped out of the pot! Because the most
important roots are the ones right around the trunk base, this tree is not likely to die even if
additional roots are pruned. |
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Photo
1.5: The
tree was quickly and easily potted into a 20" x 16" x 4.5" tall plastic
pot. The tree is 36" tall with a 4" to 5" wide trunk base and
largest trunk about 2" thick. The cut ends were coated with vaseline to
reduce dry-back. |
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Photo
1.6: The other
view of the tree is equally interesting. The tree as a nice elegant
swirl that will add nice variety to our Dwarf Schefflera collection.
Roots were guided into position with plastic ties to compliment the
swirling trunks. The tree is about 14-15 years old at this stage. |
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- UPDATE: August 2008
-
In bonsai, 18 months is not a long time. But a lot was done to
this tree in that time. New growth points developed all over
and several were selected to form the next addition to the
structure. The most important was the growth point that would be
forming the new apical growth leader and once it was selected, it
was allowed to grow and grow and grow for over one full year in
optimum growth conditions and with very heavy fertilizing.
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Photo 2.1: The objective of this second stage of training is
to create an apical transition section. The cut section was about 2
inches in diameter and it was desirable to allow the new section to grow
until the base was half the thickness of the cut section or one inch in
diameter.
With good care and growth, this was achieved in six months. The section
was allowed to grow five feet out. |
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Photo 2.2: The cut was carved to a point and the new apical leader
is being allowed to grow to the right. Under rapid growth conditions,
there's a noticeable "buttressing" effect that help to create a visual
transition. |
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Photo 2.3: With a mallot and chisel and nippers, the original stub
was removed. It is possible to hasten the healing by tightly
wrapping the area with several layers of stretched clear plastic tape
that will have the effect of flattening the bark to have the bark
actually slide over the trimmed section. The section could be left
as is to later develop a rotted area that will blend into the new top. |
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Photo 2.4: When reducing the future apical leader, make the cut as
vertical as possible to encourage new growth points to come out at the
most desirable locations. Seal the cut end with vaseline to
prevent die-back. |
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Photo
2.5: The February 2007 training followed 14-15 years of mostly
grow-out under controlled conditions with very infrequent checking of
progress. Upon being potted, the next 18 months included selection of
new growth points followed by another grow-out period. This transitional
training is the most important for creating exceptional tropical bonsai.
The tree will be allowed to grow vigorously to produce many new growth
points. Select the ones to add to the network of branches. Training
sessions will be more frequent and add detail. |
There are many forms of artistic pot plants. Japanese Bonsai are
temperate climate trees grown outdoors and these are very slow-growing.
They use plants of their climatic zones and those who live in the same
climatic zones have the best chance to succeed. Part of Japanese Bonsai
is learning and interpreting unique Japanese cultural values.
Their highly developed aesthetics permeate all aspects of their culture
and they have meticulously codified very formal bonsai that is perfect
in each detail!
Chinese Penjing is much more relaxed as the hobby of the aristocratic
literate elite. Highly individual "Scholar-farmers" with education
in all aspects of the complex Chinese culture enjoy individual
expression without concern for rules. Find exciting trees and
enhance their unique features. If something doesn't look right,
identify the problem and fix it!
Fuku-Bonsai's TRUE
INDOOR BONSAI reflects Hawaiian and American values of innovation and
individualism. It borrows from a number of Chinese concepts that
require mastery of plant horticultural skills. The rules for
success are very logical:
1. CHOOSE PLANTS THAT WILL THRIVE IN YOUR ENVIRONMENT!
Fuku-Bonsai's specialty Dwarf Schefflera is amongst the most durable of
all known houseplants that can grow in the widest range of indoor
environments.
2. START WITH AS MUCH CHARACTER AS POSSIBLE! At
the end of a first training session, if you start with a young boring
seedling, you'll pretty much end up with a young boring bonsai.
Your results pretty much depend upon your start. This article
shares the tale of a future exciting bonsai that took about 12 years to
get to this starting stage! But it has an exciting future!
Fuku-Bonsai supplies the highest quality in various sizes and stages to
fit any budget. Our oldest items have been trained from seed or cuttings
since 1973!
3. CREATE OPTIMUM GROWTH! This website includes
extensive information on creating optimum growth conditions. The better
the environment the better the growth and enjoyment! All best
wishes for a successful and satisfying hobby! ~~~David