BONSAI DISPLAY BASE. The base adds visual and actual stability to help prevent tipping. It also adds to an aesthetic distinction. Bases are natural wood or black.
CANISTER. At 5" diameter x 7" tall, it holds a generous 1/2 gallon of brackish water and is large enough to avoid the unpredictable swings of smaller units while being small enough to be carried home after purchase. The cylinder shape is ideal as it provides a "no-corner continuous swim path" for the Micro-Lobsters who are noticeably more active in a container of this shape. The food grade flexible poly ethylene teraphthalate (PET) material is also ideal as it has greater clarity, less weight, and far less breakability than glass.
SEAMOUNT AQUASCAPE & GRAVEL. Crafted from a rare very porous "high-velocity pumice ejecta" form of lava, the light, frothy material is attractive and full of holes that serve as bacteria and larval habitat. The bacteria convert Micro-Lobster wasted to carbon dioxide and algae nutrients. Algae converts the CO2 to oxygen and both the bacteria and algae are Micro-Lobster food.
A FOCUS ON FEEDING. To provide sufficient algae to be the primary food, it is necessary to have it in higher light an to accept constant cleaning to be able to view the creatures. By providing high-energy food, you can move the units to lower light and still have happy, healthy Micro-Lobsters! We supply a supply of food expected to last at least a year!
Please review specific cultural information in "MICRO-LOBSTER BASICS."
The Micro-Lobster Introductory Mini-Breeder Tank is the ideal size for easy care and high success. Very little care, no water changes, and the opportunity to create happy, healthy Micro-Lobsters! It's fun to watch them filter-feed up side down on the water surface! Similar container jars have sat on the desks of aquaculture researchers and some have been in existence for over 20 years and show no signs of crashing! But the creatures are less active and actually shrink each time they molt if they are not fed. Such systems are also much more difficult to maintain as you must achieve a perfect balance and grow enough algae. Too much algae prevents you from seeing the creatures. Too little algae and the number of surviving creatures become smaller until that balance is reached.
SEALED ECOSYSTEMS VS. OPEN ECOSYSTEM-AQUARIUMS VS. BREEDER TANKS
Some believe that the lesson of a balanced ecosystem is the primary goal and that it teaches that all elements of an ecosystem are interdependent. Some fully seal their ecosystems and only allow light to enter and leave. We strongly disagree! We consider sealed ecosystems to be brutal condemnation of helpless creatures to a sadistic end. Even at best, sealed ecosystems last only a few years compared to the non-airtight jars of the aquaculture researchers. If such systems are significant technical breakthroughs, a whole range of creatures could survive in those sealed ecosystems. But only OPAE-ULA, the Hawaiian Red Anchialine Pond Shrimp is used.
In an effort to focus attention on scientific expertise, the creature is rarely identified and there is little or no mention of the opae-ula's extraordinary qualities. These amazing creatures have long lifespans with successful systems allowing air to enter in existence for over 20 years with no signs of crashing. There are no such documented length of life in sealed ecosystems. There is very little or no reproduction in sealed ecosystems. While there are valid reasons to teach ecosystems, we believe it is simplistic to believe that a small sustainable ecosystem smaller than 1/2 gallon can be created.
We believe that a 1/2 gallon is on the smaller limit of a sustainable ecosystem and that there is a good chance that a 1/2 gallon unit will endure for a long time if allowed to have air exchanges even if it is never fed. But even with this improved environment, the creatures become smaller and smaller. There has never been a verified report of anchialine pond shrimp that maintained their natural size in a older sealed or unsealed ecosystem without supplemental feeding.
In contrast, because of the Micro-Lobster adaptive qualities and limited requirements, BREEDER TANK culture is very simple and successful! No water changes are needed once biological filtration is established. When the light unit is installed, air to allowed to enter and excess carbon dioxide to leave. If evaporation lowers the water level, add distilled water. Evaporation will leave remaining water "saltier" and the addition of room temperature distilled water will bring the salinity back near the original solution. If a large amount of distilled water is to be added, add a fourth or half, wait an hour or so, then add more. This will help the Micro-Lobsters to adjust. Do not completely change the water! The dissolved organic material and algae that may be too small to see are essential.
ESTABLISHING OPTIMUM ENVIRONMENTAL AND REPRODUCTION GOALS
In bonsai and in zoos, the health of the plants and animals are the first consideration. Bonsai will continue to develop when the growth conditions are within an acceptable range. But bonsai are impossible to train if given poor conditions; they are just old stunted plants. Animals will breed and reproduce when a zoo provides a reasonable environment close to the animal's natural environment. In the same concept,it should be the goal of concerned Micro-Lobster owners to provide an appropriate environment to allow the creatures to live happy lives and to reproduce. Such goals are far beyond any possibility by those owning sealed ecosystems. They are very achievable in the Fuku-Bonsai Micro-Lobster Breeder Tanks!
Those who create optimum environments are rewarded with a sustainable breeding colony that can go on forever!
Fuku-Bonsai encourages the adoption of these goals. If it turns out that the owner looses interest, there's a nice viable option that the unit can be given as a gift to someone who will treasure and enjoy the unit. Perhaps that person can pass it on to another person! This is our level of commitment and the potential that we establish for our Micro-Lobster Introductory Mini-Breeder Tank! There are several reasons we are successful while others are not:
1. BREEDER TANKS ARE NOT LIGHT DEPENDANT. With the light off, you'll have a difficult time enjoying the Micro-Lobsters. After a few hours, you'll notice that the Micro-Lobsters are more active and as they calm and become used to their new home. You'll begin to notice interesting attractive details of the seamount aquascapes and the the rock is filled with interesting nooks and creases for the Micro-Lobsters to hide in. After a few days, they'll be the proud rulers of the seamount kingdom and may meet on the summit to survey their domain! They will become a bright dark red once they adjust and feel secure. But they immediately become pale when they're frightened or if there are loud noises. For those who live in cooler climates, the light adds some warmth and it may be appropriate to keep the light on all the time in cooler seasons to assure that the air temperature around the Introductory Aquariums stay above 65°F. Fuku-Bonsai's Micro-Lobster canister light unit utilizes a 7-watt bulb. We stock the difficult to find bulb if a replacement is necessary.
2. FEED, BUT DO NOT OVER-FEED! If you use the 5x jeweler's loupe to study the Micro-Lobsters, you'll see their tiny size. Imagine the tiny size of their mouths and that they already get a lot of their food from algae and bacteria that you can't even see! Micro-Lobsters are filter feeders and opportunistic eaters. They'll pick at algae or eat microscopic bacteria. So your supplemental food should be very fine like dust and amount of food should be very, very, very small! If your Micro-Lobsters have a very healthy environment, they will molt and shed their external skeleton from time to time. If you're observant, you'll notice what appears to be the transparent Micro-Lobster shell that had been shed. Within a few hours, the molt shell will be eaten and the nutrients go right back into the system. Even though they are filter feeders requiring that their food to be small enough to go into their mouths, water is a natural solvent and soften and dissolves many things.
IT IS BETTER TO NOT FEED THAN TO FEED IMPROPERLY! THE EASIEST WAY TO CRASH A SYSTEM IS IMPROPER OR OVER-FEEDING! If this is your first Micro-Lobster Breeder Tank, do not feed at least for the first few days! Please review all of the material on this website so you fully understand the concepts, principles and the correct methods to avoid upsetting the balance in your Introductory Aquarium. DO NOT OVER-FEED!
3. IT'S NOT NECESSARY TO ADD AIR! Our objective was to create small simple complete units that can be placed in homes, offices, and educational institutions that require very little care. These should be treated as pets and pets should not be totally neglected or starved. But these creatures have amongst the lowest oxygen, light, and food requirements! As long as the water quality is kept high, it is not necessary to add air. The easiest way to reduce water quality is to over-feed as the uneaten food will pollute the water! Instead of giving too much low-energy food, give a tiny amount of Fuku-Bonsai Premium Breeding Food to maintain good water quality!
Anyone seeing Fuku-Bonsai tanks immediately notice that much of the tank's population are post-larval juveniles or immature adults! The Micro-Lobsters are more active!
Fuku-Bonsai produces the finest Micro-Lobster products and is fully committed to the concept of "BREEDER TANKS" are for those who want to create a sustainable colony that has the potential to go on forever! To our knowledge, we are the first to advocate feeding and am very pleased with reported success of our initial customers who assisted us in our trials! You're cordially invited to join our Micro-Lobster Study Group!